The phenomenon is universal, it is not more youth but beauty and skin health. And in this field, instead of desperately seeking new assets on the other side of the world, the laboratories are refocusing on the well-known molecules that have proven themselves.

The legislation reduces the list of authorized ingredients from day to day. The ban on animal tests, the constraints of certain countries such as China, the requirement of naturalness and consumer safety make it more and more time-consuming, complicated and expensive to develop new assets.

Researchers therefore come back to "simpler, safer formulas, with fewer components but chosen with relevance, perfectly purified, at the right concentrations to cover all the cutaneous needs of all skin types," explains Lionel de Benetti, cosmetologist consultant. . Even more so when they have to formulate a global cream, where the skin has to draw everything it needs to be fresh, plump, smooth and luminous.

The essential stars molecules

Long remained hidden in the shadows because they did not dream enough of marketing, these molecules have continued to be presented in our jars of cream to ensure results. Guaranteed by dermatologists, transparent, in perfect affinity with the skin, non-polluting, based on ingredients often already present naturally in the body, they now occupy center stage.

Plants for a return to naturalness

Given the carbon footprint and alteration of some plantations, the trend is towards proven local plant active ingredients. The laboratories then review their method of extraction and preparation to optimize their actions on the skin.

• Vitalizing lavender essential oil

Specialist in essential oils, Decléor has selected two varieties: lavender and true lavender. The first for its healing properties, which revives the production of collagen and elastin. The second for its soothing anti-inflammatory effect. Associated with the absolute iris, it is the mainstay of the anti-aging line Prolagene Lift. Special mention for the Revitalizing Night Balm, which literally melts into the skin, and the Flash Mask, whose hybrid texture makes the self-massage technique a real moment of pleasure. ( Aromessence Iris Revitalizing Night Balm from Decléor, from 42 €)

• Plumping organic saffron

This luxury spice develops multiple medicinal properties: analgesic, antidepressant, appetite reducing, sedative ... Rich in vitamin A and antioxidants, this red gold is a complete anti-aging active. The team of pharmacists at Korres Laboratories extracts the molecules from the stigmas of organic Greek saffron harvested the same day and associates them with beta-glucans, peptides and amino acids to plump, lifter and firm. This treasure of firmness also supports a thousand families from Kozani, Greece. ( Gold Safran Elixir of Korres, 89 €)

• The redensifying centella asiatica

This Chinese plant is known for its healing properties discovered by observing tigers that roll to heal their wounds. Its anti-inflammatory and stimulating action of collagen synthesis is at the service of sensitive skin which, subjected to stress of all kinds - from pollution to internal oxidation - lives a permanent and underlying micro-inflammation accelerating their aging. Pro-retinol was added to restart the production of these fibers, and the texture was studied to reduce application friction and not to irritate. The amount of preservatives has been reduced. An anti-aging day care for all skin - tested on 100% sensitive skin. ( Cicacrem Revitalift from L'Oreal Paris, € 12)

• Regenerating argan oil

Organic pioneer, Melvita uses the highest concentration of this oil rich in omega 9 and 6, and sterols to ensure maximum nutrition, hydration and regeneration of skin tissues in melting textures and fluid non-greasy. A performance due to a new natural and green emulsifier composed of beeswax and jojoba. ( Pure Concentrated Argan Line from Melvita, from 27 €)

• Tears of pistachio lentisque revitalizing

This shrub produces a resin used in traditional medicine. More recently, researchers have cracked its secret. The extract induces the production of klotho, a longevity protein, especially in fibroblasts that produce collagen fibers. This light and non-greasy anti-aging marvel combines with a cocktail of eleven oils to ensure hydration, nutrition, repair, regeneration, soothing and detoxification. ( Bewitching Oil with Super Powers of Garancia, 35,35 € Available from October 2017)

• Coloring sea buckthorn and raspberry berries

Operation looks good for dull and tired complexions with the colorful pulp of sea buckthorn berries and raspberry, and sage. All organic, antioxidant, antipollution, protective and moisturizing to revive and illuminate the skin, declined in pink or tanned version. ( Sublime Roses of Sanoflore, 12,90 €)

• The anti-inflammatory longevity sheet

Initially, there is enmei, a plant used for millennia for its anti-inflammatory properties. Knowing that inflammation maintains and accelerates aging processes, the laboratories have succeeded in extracting stem cells rich in polyphenols to strengthen the protective and immune system of the skin by stimulating the expression of the famous genes of longevity, and this in a different way night and day. They added traditional Japanese ingredients to enhance the action of enmei extracts: vitamin C, green tea, angelica root extract and cherry leaves. This new longevity system has proven its ability to strengthen the skin's defenses, increase radiance and skin regeneration and reduce wrinkles. ( Future Shiseido LX Day and Night Solution, 356 € care)

• Versatile ginseng

In this renowned Korean skincare line, ginseng has been studied and worked for over fifty years. It is far from a classic extract to do everything and especially swallow: researchers use the leaf, the seed, the stem or the flower according to the specific needs of the skin, with different modes of extraction so as to provide the maximum of active molecules according to the part of the plant. In addition, there are plants recommended in Hanban's ancient Chinese medicine book: peony, lotus, Solomon's leap and lily. Each product has been designed and developed according to Asian philosophy, that of a holistic beauty that combines balance and harmony. Another philosophy of cosmetics. ( Sulwhasoo line, from 35 €, exclusively at Galeries Lafayette)

• The products of the sanitation hive

A first for the Swiss laboratory that combines its traditional assets - DNA and RNA liposomes, glacier water - with a species of bee products. The performance comes from an ecological transformation and formulation to combine honey, propolis and royal jelly. The secret ? A new eco-certified physical extraction process that uses Rosehip oil as a natural solvent and preserves the moisturizing, cleansing and regenerating properties of bee products. A line of three products - cure, mask and serum for the eyes - particularly nourishing and rejuvenating. ( Essence of Bees The Elixir of the Glaciers of Valmont, from 290 €)

• Milk thistle anti-irritant

This plant is known to calm irritations and to reinitiate the production of collagen. This is why Dr. Nadine Pernodet, head of research and development of skin biology at Estée Lauder, has also included it in this new eye contour.

Indeed, researchers are observing more and more closely the response of cells to an environment subject to mechanical constraints. There are gentle and beneficial stresses like manual massage or a cleaning brush that solicits fibroblasts to make more collagen to redensify tissues. And others, strong, incessant, very fast, which shorten the fibroblasts and thus reduce their activity. Nadine Pernodet took a serious look at the eye area to better understand why aging is so precocious.

"This skin is thinner, more sensitive, more irritated and drier, and suffers ten thousand blinks a day, each of which acts directly on the skin because in this region it is directly attached to the muscles. the rate of blinks in steps, this mechanical stress is equivalent to 8 km, a real marathon. "

The doctor has therefore established the first biomechanical model to understand and copy exactly what is happening in the skin. She found a decrease in collagen production and an increase in irritation in young and old skin, witnesses of premature aging. These observations are at the origin of this innovative new treatment, which deposits on the surface a viscoelastic network damping tensions as does a sole in a running shoe. There is also Chronolux technology, which resynchronizes cell repair cycles, and a double concentration of hyaluronic acid to moisturize and smooth. ( Estée Lauder's Eye Concentrate Matrix Advanced Night Repair, 68 €)

Vitamin C for radiance

Vital substance for health, it intervenes on the major causes of aging (oxidation, inflammation, glycation and mutation of DNA). It also regulates hyperpigmentation to unify the complexion and energizes our fibroblasts to firm tissue. As Cyrille Telinge, founder of Novexpert, says today, thanks to new derivatives, it is stable, is released gradually over several hours to increase its effectiveness and can be formulated in high doses without tingling.

• The Body Shop Eclat Vitamin C Activating Moisturizer , 23 €

A real energy shoot with camu-camu berry vitamin C (a tree that grows in the Amazon), sixty times richer than that of orange. Brilliance and super-hydration guaranteed with this fresh cream gel.

• Radiance Care of the Pure State Complexion , € 15.50

A real good-looking formula to break the foundation. Apricot, it illuminates, smoothes and unifies the complexion while vitamin C reduces wrinkles and fatigue.

• Booster with Vitamin C from Novexpert , 54,90 €

Recommended for dull skin with pigment spots and / or fine lines, the formula offers 25% stabilized Vitamin C to offset the effects of stress, pollution, sun, aging, alcohol and tobacco.

• Flavo-C Forte of Aurega , 26,50 €

An anti-aging regenerative super-concentrated, anti-wrinkle and anti-stain, which also illuminates the complexion.

• Anti-tiring and anti-oxidant Liftactiv treatment from Vichy , 30 €

A shot that contains 15% Pure Vitamin C for use for 10 days. A shock cure that fights against inflammaging and pigmentary disorders. Farewell drawn features, dull complexion and skin "raplapla".

Hyaluronic acid (HA) to plump up

Biocompatible, biodegradable, biomimetic, here is the eldorado laboratories. The molecule is exactly the same in humans and animals. The skin contains 50% of our HA, the rest is in the bones, eyes, joints. Obtained by biotechnology with a bacterium and very little energy, it is made to infinity. This double-sided super-sponge can simultaneously capture the water of the air and the one that evaporates from the body. It multiplies by a thousand its volume to reinflate, moisturize and reduce mechanically and quickly wrinkles . Its action does not stop at this surface effect. Depending on its size, HA penetrates more or less far into the skin layers to heal and regenerate by stimulating the production of our own hyaluronic acid and our collagen. It is the assurance of a plump skin, supple, elastic and full of radiance.

• L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Filler [HA] , € 17.90

To correct the loss of volume cheeks and cheekbones to quarantine, it uses a small hyaluronic acid. It targets the cells of the epidermis and dermis to induce them to produce their own HA. The high concentration also boosts collagen production. It is associated with Fibroxyl, a vegetable sugar that puts the fibroblasts under tension to restructure the skin mattress.

• Serum Booster with Hyaluronic Acid from Novexpert , 50 €

The highest concentration of HA in four different sizes. The largest smooth surface. Others, of different molecular weights, aim at deeper layers to moisturize, heal and boost the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. This also justifies its anti-aging action. This serum - without parabens, silicones or mineral oils and guaranteed 100% of natural origin - compensates for the daily loss of HA of the skin. In all seasons, it is used alone, before the cream or mask, or mixed with the care product, on all skin, even sensitive.

• Mineral Fortifying and Plumping Daily Booster 89 from Vichy , 20 €

This liquid-care contains high molecular weight natural hyaluronic acid associated with Vichy Mineral Water. AH forms a protective film on the surface of the skin, stimulates the synthesis of keratinocytes (cells that cover 90% of the epidermis, the superficial layer of the skin), captures water and retains it from the skin while improving its defenses systems. A heavy weapon.

• HA Intensifier Corrector Serum by Skinceuticals , 120 €

A care that increases the hyaluronic acid level of the skin by 30%. It hydrates on the surface and stimulates the synthesis of HA in the dermis. As a result, the wrinkles are smoothed and the skin plumped.

• Norelift Chrono-filler from Noreva , from € 24.50 to € 35

AH to reinflate the skin at all levels, associated with specific assets to stimulate the production of collagen, with the key botox-like actions, regenerating, smoothing and antioxidant. The formula is available in five anti-wrinkle effect lift products.

• Planter's Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Serum , € 16.40

Given its high concentration, it provides both hydration, anti-aging and firmness. Note, the formula does not contain para-ben, silicone or petroleum derivatives.

• Hyal Ceutic from Dermaceutic , 26,50 €

Just balance between a big AH to protect and plump on the surface, and a second smaller to repair and counter the signs of aging.

Marine molecules to strengthen the defenses

Natural and renewable, ocean resources are of interest to researchers in their diversity and quantity. Especially algae, which undergo similar and greater stress than skin (dehydration, oxidation, bacterial attack, thermal shock ...). Hence the formidable biocompatibility of the latter. "These natural extracts rich in nutrients, vitamins and minerals offer more and more powerful assets," says Nadine Pernodet, Director of Research and Development at Estée Lauder. Their presence is thus increased in care to strengthen and strengthen the skin, and preserve its radiance.

• Biotherm Eye Opening Blue Therapy Serum, 48 €

It contains an extract of Alaria Esculenta, an alga from Greenland that attacks inflammation, activates the proteasome to remove proteins damaged by cellular aging and repairs the skin. As a bonus, a surfactant polymer of marine origin smooths the eye contour.

• Intensive revitalizing precious oil Elixir of Pen Lan d'Algologie, 49 €

The brand has incorporated in this oil its exclusive bio-mimetic complex ALGO 4® composed of four active ingredients derived from extremophile plants. It also contains Alaria Esculenta, an algae that boosts the synthesis of collagen fibers and protects the skin against the attacks of free radicals.

• Thalgo Oceans Prodigy Essence, 150 €

A super serum based on 63 marine nutrients including Bioactive Marine Water, marine native cells and a multi-cellular algae. Good bye wrinkles, spots, dryness; Hello bright complexion and firm skin.

• Clinique Smart Clinique Smart SPF15 Action Repair Cream, 70 €

Clinique incorporates in this day cream an extract of Plancton, a restorative enzyme that under the action of the sun's rays, promotes natural cell regeneration and fights against the visible harmful effects of UV exposure , major cause of premature aging. An extract of seaweed, derived from a brown alga straight from the Breton coast, brightens and boosts the luminosity of the complexion. Brilliance guaranteed!

The best associations to boost the effectiveness of care

Some labs capitalize on their experience in mastering assets to combine them and achieve stunning "skin" results. These new global anti-aging formulas rely on several star molecules. The skin draws all that it needs to be at its best, denser, fresh, luminous, smooth and pulpy.

Hyaluronic Acid Resveratrol

Its pure resveratrol extract from a plant in Central Asia acts on all fronts of aging (inflammation, oxidation, pigment spots) with two types of hyaluronic acid. The first one remains on the surface for an immediate smoothing effect and the second repairs in depth. Amazing textures. (Liftiane from SVR, from € 22 to € 29.50).

Hyaluronic Acid Retinaldehyde Alga

A new technique makes it possible to obtain As-cofillin, a small and very active fraction of an algae, to activate collagen synthesis and restructure the skeleton of the skin. Very precise fragments of hyaluronic acid provide maximum stimulation to the receptors responsible for its production in the skin. Avène adds its cult anti-aging molecule, an active vitamin A - retinaldehyde that has been indestructible for twenty years - which stimulates cells to revitalize their renewal and consolidate cutaneous structures. A trio of shock to reduce wrinkles, firm up and bring a new shine. Maximum efficiency, optimum safety and low prices. (Physiolift of Avène, from € 28.50 to € 33.10).

Hyaluronic acid Floral extracts Peptide

The formula wants to replicate the activity of a skin protein (FOXO) that ensures the functionality and longevity of epidermal and dermal cells. For this, we combined a FOXO-compliant hexapeptide, with a hyaluronic acid to plump, an asset that stimulates tissue healing, flower extracts to moisturize and soften, and finally a nutrient concentrate. Particularly suitable for mature skin. (Premium Anti-aging Absolute of Lierac, from 59 € to 109,40 €).

Resveratrol Hyaluronic Acid Peptides

A pioneer of vine resveratrol, the most effective anti-aging active in the world, Caudalie research adds a new complex of two hyaluronic acids of different sizes, which the Harvard Medical School team has proven action through activation of the HAS2 gene and stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis. There are also peptides to counteract relaxation and provide an immediate lift effect. A serum without oil to pulp from the inside, to redensify and smooth the skin, to use from the quarantine. (Resveratrol [Lift] of Caudalie, from 34 € to 45 €).

Hyaluronic Acid Light Energy

Influenced by aesthetic medicine, Filorga is inspired by rejuvenation by light to correct the signs of aging. An enzyme optimizes light energy to repair DNA, another fight the harmful effects of UV. A sapphire extract maximizes the radiation of the skin while active detoxify tissues. And especially the famous NCTF cocktail of five revitalizing actives including hyaluronic acid, of course. (Skin-Absolute Day of Filorga, 119 €).